Sunday, April 30, 2006

Kanchanaburi - the enchanting province

Situated two hours north-west of Bangkok lies the province of Kanchanaburi - a lush, green, mountainous land best known for the foreign blood spilt during WWII. It is the place where thousands of Australian POW's died building the Thailand to Burma Railway in the early 1940s - now commonly referred to as the Death Railway. Today, Kanchanaburi, while still keeping an eerie, sad feel in parts, is made up of lush rainforest and warm locals.
We stayed at the Little Creek Valley Resort - 300 baht a night ($11au) for a gorgeous bungalow, built in African style, complete with an outdoor marble and bamboo shower. The entire property was based on an African village, with tiny huts spread over 30 acres and an open-air restaurant and swimming pool to spend many lazy hours in.
After spending an evening soaking up the lush surroundings, the four of us hired a jeep and headed out for the day to the Erawan National Park - about 65km west of town. The drive along the River Kwai was spectacular, and once at Erawan, the scenery only improved. Running through the middle of the park is a seven-tiered waterfall. Each level produces a new fresh-water pool to swim in. Each level also provides hundreds of fish, which will gladly nibble at you - causing girly shrieks - whenever you get close.
After Erawan we drove to the Tiger Temple, where monks have taken in abandoned tiger cubs into what is loosely called a sanctuary. As with all forms of animal entertainment -- whether it be a sanctuary or zoo - there are always some feelings of unease as these wild animals are clearly not-so-wild today. We did, however, do the touristy thing and enter the tiger canyon to pat some of the amazing creatures. You just wanted to cuddle up to them and give them a good belly scratch and rub their broad noses. Of course, a quick pat on the back for each of them had to suffice.
Our second day in Kanchanaburi was a teary one, as Bol and I headed to the War Cemetery. Rows of thousands of Australians - many just my age - lay stretched with headstones detailing their loved ones' last words. Unfortunately we ran out of time in Kanchanaburi and missed out on going to Hellfire Pass and doing the ride on the Death Railway. We had already booked our train for Chang Mai the following day, and so decided to return in ten weeks after we've done our south-east asia tour and end up back in Thailand, before we fly to Europe. It's a good excuse to come back to this gorgeous province. We look forward to our return.

The Southern Islands


After leaving Bangkok, Em, me, Tim and Traci took the 8 hour bus trip and 2-3 hour ferry to Kho Pa Ngang via Kho Tao. We stayed at Harmony Beach Resort where Tim and Traci knew the owner Dave, a pommy guy who was a legend. Apart from lazing around, swimming in the 31 degree ocean, eating, drinking and learning new card games, we also explored the many roads and beaches around the island on motor bikes. At first we just hired some semi auto scooter type things that were o.k. But soon Tim and I got the itch for a bit of dirk bike riding. We rode to a remote beach at the top of the island (with Emma squirming on the back as it was her first time on a dirt bike), dropped the girls off at a bar and went for a good old squirt. O.k, so my bike was a piece of crap but still it was a hoot. On the way to returning the bikes mine broke down - about 4 times - but I managed to get her back to the shop where it broke down again right in front of the owner. I pretended to have just hit the kill switch to make it look like I had just turned it off, so no extra charge for me. Phew! It just so happened that we were there at the time of the famous full moon parties. We went into Had Rin (tourist party central) at about about 3pm and got stuck into the red bull buckets. For those who don't know, these buckets are famous on the islands and consist of a mix of Thai Rum (Sam Song), coke and Red Bull syrup. Needless to say that after 3 or 4 buckets each, plus beers, we left the party by 1am. Not a very good innings for a group of Aussies. All good though, cos is was so cheesy and sleazy that we probably wouldn't have stayed longer anyway. We stayed a few more days at Harmony, where the ocean views were amazing and the company (including a gorgeous group of dogs) made the place feel like home. Then it was onward - we packed our bags and grabbed the ferry to Kho Tao.


Looking at Kho Tao as you enter by boat

Ah ... Kho Tao ... what a chilled out paradise. The beaches are beautiful, the food is cheap and the deep fried white snapper thai style is amazing. The four of us went for a walk to a great beach that's pretty much all reef and went snorkelling with the reef sharks. I highly recommend it to all of you. What a rush swimming with sharks! But to all you bigger guys (you know who you are) you better learn to suck in your guts cos it's real shallow for a long time and the coral can be damn sharp! The next day Tim and Traci went diving and Em and I tagged along with our snorkels. (I can't dive until I get my medical clearance for my asthma). I ended up doing some free diving to around 14 meters which was wicked. By now our 3 nights were up so it was time to say good bye to Kho Tao and head back to Bangkok to make our way to Kanchanaburi.

Friday, April 28, 2006

Finally landed

Well, we did it guys, we've made it to Thailand. The first thing you experience in Bangkok is getting out of the airport. The heat is so full on this time of year. It's like being kicked in the face by a sauna. Then you get the taxi touts with thier "missa missa where you go?". After being asked a hundred times or more it's not hard to think of a place you'd like them to go. But once you're on your way to your guest house and the taxi's aircon kicks in, you can sit back, relax and soak up all they amazing sights and sounds that Bangkok has to offer. What a city. Luckily for us we had our Aussie mates Tim and Traci to show us around and ease us into the city's rhythm.

Tim and Traci our local guides

Once you find that rhythm you can't help but fall in love with her charm. Sure you might get hasselled out here and there, and there are the ever pestering "tuk-tuk" drivers who all seem to have a mate who has precious gem stones at a special price only for you. But once you're away from the tourist spots Bangkok takes on another side. Winding alley ways, bustling local produce markets, temples and parks. Not to mention the fresh tasty food and beer that won't break your wallet.
After a few days of shopping, checking out some of the sights and getting to know the city and it's layout, we were all invited to my cousin and his wife's house for the most amazing Thai dinner. Chris, my cousin, and his wife, Moo Dang, made us feel at home and really put on a feast for us with a range of dishes that included crispy fried prawns, traditional thai pork and the best duck curry you will ever get, anywhere!

Chris, Moo Dang and the gang

The feast with the world's best duck curry

Well, it's time for us to leave Bangkok for a while and head to the southern islands to relax on the white sandy beaches. Write again soon!